Sunday, July 11, 2010

Portrait of the Natural Wine Seller as a Young Woman

The below post was my contribution to Cory Cartwright's 32 Days of Natural Wine series.


When I was out selling wine last week and I was waiting on a wine buyer, a young woman behind the bar asked me how I got into the wine business.
I said, "Well, it all started with lots of house music and late nights".

1995
Melbourne, Australia

I had escaped the NY winter blues to visit friends in Oz. Money was running low after a few months of being a beach bum and I somehow scammed myself a bartending job at one of the hottest nightclubs in the city. My first night they threw me behind the bar, we had over a thousand thirsty clubbers. I did not understand a word they said between the pounding house music and their thick Aussie accents. We closed the bar down at 8 am. I had a blast. But I also knew I could make something more interesting than a rum and coke.
Over time I became a beverage manager for a hospitality group that owned a restaurant, a bar bistro and a huge nightclub. I began incorporating elixirs like Aperol and Averna, I started muddling fresh fruit, herbs and ginger into my cocktails. I called myself a mixologist because bartender did not seem to cover it anymore. Although I was not entirely certain what that term meant or where it came from. This was 1997.

At the same time, I started working on the wine lists for the restaurant and bistro. I was what the big wine distributors gleefully refer to as fresh meat. I did not even realize that I was supposed to spit or take notes during a tasting.
So I started tasting (and spitting) as many wines as possible, visiting wineries and reading every wine book I could get my hands on. And I fell in love, head over heels. Wine was about travel, history, romance and food. Sign me up.



2002
Texas

I was tired of working nights and knew that I wanted to focus on wine exclusively, rather than continue on the path of restaurant or beverage management. So with a quick continent jump and a huge drop in pay, I became a wine distributor sales rep. A sure path towards cultivating compassion for others if there ever was one.
I was back in North America and knew close to nothing about North American wines, having spent the previous seven years tasting and learning about primarily Aussie and European wines. I missed the crisp semillons, verdelhos and rieslings I had grown to love in Oz.
I went to work for a small distributor that primarily sold imports (Charles Neal Selections) and a few domestics like Edmunds St John. The owner was a man of passion and was a mentor for me in many ways. He picked wines by his palate, and not always his business sense.
When that company folded due to lack of capital, I went to work in the fine wine division of one of the big distributors. I learned how the big boys work and it was an invaluable experience but corporate life is not for me.
Then I spent a few years as a national accounts manager for a couple of importers. Traveling the country, a new city almost every week. I remember sitting on a rental car shuttle and the guy next to me asked where I was headed, I had to pause for several seconds before I could remember where I was going to next. It was time for a change.





2009
California

Okay, so by now I knew a thing or two about selling wine. But over the past few years my personal wine palate had changed. I could no longer stomach the big, oaky wines that so many new world producers were making. I read Alice Feiring's 'The Battle For Wine and Love', which has been an eye-opener for many wine lovers seeking more authentic wines. I started seeking out these wines that had been less chemically manipulated, both for the flavors and aromas but also because of a philosophical synergy.
At the same time, I was shopping at farmers markets in Los Angeles. I went out of my way to buy only organic fruit and vegetables.
I found that my passion for both drinking and selling wine was re-awakened.
So it made sense to take the plunge and sell only the wines I loved. I sunk my tiny little nest egg into purchasing wines from importers like Savio Soares as well as domestic producers like La Clarine Farm and Donkey & Goat, and representing them in the California market. Virtually all of the wines I sell are 'hand-sell' wines from small producers, and yes many of them farm organically and use very minimal intervention in the cellar. I literally put my money where my mouth is.
Scary? Hell yes. But I wouldn't have it any other way.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Discovering Russian Food & Wine



I am traveling in Moscow this week. A dream from my melancholic youth.
Due to my own curiosity and the outlandish prices of imported wine, I have been seeking out 'local' wines from Crimea,etc (unfortunately, Georgian wines are hard to locate in Moscow due to political hostilities).




This was a delicious bottle of 2009 kokur from Crimea. Wonderful salinity and some quince or pear flavors, not a trace of oak. Really good. Wish I could find more. Perfect pairing with freshly pickled herring and dill potatoes. Yum.


After a leisurely lunch of Uzbek lamb pilaf, we ordered the local cloudberry tea and pickled walnuts in anise syrup for dessert. The tea is made from steeped fresh clouberries and tasted somewhat like warm orange juice, weird but good.