It's one of those concepts you hear about and can intellectually understand right away.
Be we all know there is a difference between mentally grasping an idea and truly experiencing that event on a more sensory level.
It's like when you tell a newcomer to SF that Zuni has the best roast chicken in the world and that they should order it. They look at you with sadness, like oh the poor girl thinks chicken is that exciting. Then you see them after the meal, and they did order the chicken after all. Their eyes have a messianic gleam. They are already planning their next trip back to SF, just to taste that chicken.
Amidst all the posturing and educating and tasting that is going on now about natural wines, you will sometimes hear people talk about how the wines are alive.
At first I took this as just more hyperbole, to which I am accustomed since I work in wine sales.
I have arrived at natural wines ( and the journey is continuing everyday) as a wine lover and a wine professional because I am seeking real wine made with passion and forethought.
Yes, it is important to me that the grapes are grown without toxic chemicals.
Why? Well that's how I buy my fruits and veggies too. Not that I am truly afraid that toxic residue has made it into the wine. But more that I don't want to support practices that cause our waterways and our people (vineyard workers, etc) to be poisoned. Seems logical. Seems very possible to achieve with careful, thoughtful farming practices.
These grapes that were grown with intelligence and love are now taken into the cellar and nothing is added! No cultivated yeasts (which can significantly alter the flavor profile of a wine, almost wiping out any sense of place), no acids, no sugar, no de-alcoholization, no micro-oxygenation, and minimal amounts of sulfur.
And yes the resulting wines have a delicacy that I crave now. They are full of elegant fruits, fine acids, and they are slightly lighter in style and alcohol levels.
These are generous and food friendly wines.
But here is the magic part. These are living wines. You feel a true vibrancy emanating from these wines. It is the difference between eating a potato chip and eating a freshly dug up new potato, just boiled and with a drop of butter.
I think Savio Soares is the first person who got that message through to me. But only because he said it as I was tasting one of the wines he imports, the Phillippe Bornard Cots de Jura Savignin 2005. An epiphany wine that still has me smiling now. Unexpected and complex and alive. Nuts, honey, salty, quince.
If you want to EXPERIENCE what I am writing about then seek out these people and the wines they sell:
Savio Soares Selections
Jenny & Francois Selections
Louis/Dressner Selections
Terroir SF San Francisco
Lou's on Vine Los Angeles
Pourtal Wine Bar Santa Monica
Ten Bells NYC
Friday, November 13, 2009
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5 comments:
There are American wineries which focus on living wine as well. I think they are worth seeking out.
Perhaps another Thanksiving list...
I agree there are American wineries making living wine. Edmunds St. John, Clos Saron, NPA (Kevin Kelley), Scholium....the list goes on.
This post wasn't necessarily about where the wine was made but how it was made.
Would love for you to leave a list of your favorite American wineries that make living wine.
Hi Amy,
Nice post.
I have approximately 15 completely un-sulfured wines on my wine list and at least another dozen with extremely low dosages of sulfur. All of these wines are made in the methods you discuss - Organic or bio grapes, only indigenous yeasts, no filtration, etc.
Conventional wine makers will try and convince you that you cannot make wine without sulfur and that once you open one of these bottles, you must drink them right away. This just isn't true. I experience on a daily basis the FACT that once opened, these natural wines drink for up to 2 weeks and sometimes even longer. They improve and become more exciting each day.
On the other hand, once a conventional bottle of wine is opened, I have to sell it within 3 or 4 days max before it is no longer drinkable.
These natural wines are certainly alive and their longevity and development once opened is extremely exciting!
-cheers
Thanks Joseph. Yes, I have had the exact same experience with many sans soufre wines. Just last night I was tasting the Mazel Briand Grenache and the L'Octavin Poulssard, both of which were even more exciting after 24 hours open.
Wines farmed organically and made with minimal sulfites are the same as any other wines in one way, they can be made well or badly.
Amy
Absolutely, a wine is either good or bad, weather or not they are organic or not.
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